autorestomod automotive How to

Door Panel Tips and Tricks

5 Tips For Better Brakes

Brakes Won’t Bleed
Soft Brake Pedal
New Brakes
Old Brakes.

5. Check your hard lines/soft lines/bleed screw. The dirty secret is that if you are using stainless brake lines, you may have to tighten the line up a little tighter than with Nicop or mild steel. The issue being that the flair on the stainless is less malleable than the flair on the other two. Air may be getting in but fluid may not be getting out. Also, old lines are old, and replacements are available, Check for damage to the lines.

4. New/existing parts issues. In the last three master cylinders we have gotten, one of them was not well rebuilt, we had air leaks on the seal and some substance that was not dissipating in the brake fluid. Always bench bleed a master cylinder thoroughly before installing it. Also, on Drum brakes, make sure that the rub pads are in good shape. If they are grooved, you could have problems under braking.

3. Air in the line/Improper bleeding procedure. Start at the back of the vehicle farthest away from the master for the rear system and the farthest from the master for the front system. Air is the enemy of good braking.

2. wrong parts/mix and match parts. Make sure that all the parts on the car are correct for that car (or are the correct aftermarket parts). This could be an issue of a former power brake car having been converted to a non power system, or a non power car converted to power. Wrong push rod etc.

1. Leaks. Wheel cylinders, calipers, but especially master cylinders and bleeder screws. Cars without power brakes will see a rust trail down the firewall inside the car if the master cylinder seals are going bad. Harder to detect on cars with power brakes. But the fluid is very bad for the rubber diaphragm. And when we bleed the brakes, the bleeder screws if too loose will allow air into the system, or if they are not tight enough will draw air into the system.

BONUS.
Old or low brake fluid. Our truck has to have a leak in the system somewhere on the front. As we have lost fluid.

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5 Reasons To Go To A Car Show

New Mustang Project

1. It will Energize you on your project. Seeing other cars finished can inspire you to get moving on your car if you are stalled.

2. It is a great way to meet people that can possibly help you with things you are needing done. Or with parts that you are having a hard time finding.

3. If you are trying to get your car finished, a car show deadline will make you have a goal for completion.

4. Get custom business cards made so you can keep in touch with the other participants that you meet.

5.Finally it probably one of the coolest communities you can get involved with, especially on the local level. Many of the cars that attend are drivers and the owners are often willing to help in many ways more than just information.

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We look at a new fast paced project 1967 Mustang

We have a 1967 Mustang hardtop that needs work. It belongs to a friend of ours who is not a car guy but loves cars. We talk about what the car needs and whether he got a good or bad deal.

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ENGINE DIAGNOSIS TIPS!

We use the 1967 Mustang as a test bed for judging an engines health.

Keep it cold. Make sure to tell the owner before you roll out that you don’t want it warmed up before you arrive. Never buy a car that the engine is warm to the touch when you get there. This usually means that they are trying to hide a rod knock or other issue.

Check fluids first. Oil should be good, fresh oil could be the sign that they are hiding an issue.

Check coolant. Any oil or milkiness indicates a head gasket issue. Or a cracked block.

Cranking check. If it lopes on cranking it has a dead cylinder.

Vacuum gauge. It can tell you a lot about the health of an engine.

https://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html#:~:text=From%20sea%20level%20to%202%2C000,1%2C000%20feet%20rise%20in%20elevation.&text=Engine%20is%20in%20Good%20Condition,next%20test%20to%20be%20sure.

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Tuning Your Classic Car

1. Check plugs.

Old need to be replaced. Fuel fouled can be cleaned and re-gaped.
Gap on a Electronic ignition (Duraspark, Davis HEI, Pertronix) should be around .35 to .45 (check with your distributor manufacturer). Points type ignition should have the plugs gaped to around .16 (check the service manual for correct gap).

Run engine. Check for your miss. If it is gone you have found your miss.

2. Check float level. Generally examine carburetor. Look for unplugged vacuum ports, things like our accelerator pump where it is not even hooked up.

Carb basics. Idle screw.
Idle jets
accelerator pump
float setting on Holley

Run engine.

3. Vacuum check with Carb cleaner around carburetor base and intake.

Older carbs check throttle shafts. You are looking for an increase in vacuum.

4. Timing. This can be tuned with a vacuum gauge or a timing light. This engine is an unknown, and is somewhat cobbled together. So we are going to use a vacuum gauge.

Run engine.

5. Tune carburetor for best performance. Use vacuum gauge to make sure you have the engine running at it’s best.

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We Fail to Start an Engine

A 408 Small Block Chevy, a mix of new and old parts...what could possibly go wrong. This week we Fail to get the engine to start, not from any issue we created, but because of a bad fuel line and a missed MSD 6AL box. Sometimes these things happen.

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May/June 2021